If you can’t live without electrical gadgets and wifi then I don’t expect you to be rushing over to Pangong Tso (Tso = Lake) anytime soon, but more fool you. This remote expanse of water that straddles both India and China happens to be the highest salt water lake in the world (at an altitude of 4,350 m) and arguably the most beautiful. Fans of the film ‘3 Idiots’ will undoubtedly recognise it from the final scenes.




The only reason to come here is to sit in a strategically placed chair overlooking the water and watch, mesmerized as the shades of blue continually change. You can go for a stroll of course, but you’ll soon be out of breath owing to the thinness of air. Better just to sit down and relax.


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There is nothing but the lake. It commands your attention.


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We stayed by the water’s edge on a campsite with fancy tents, and by fancy I mean, each tent boasted an enormous bed covered in multiple thick duvets and blankets (much needed!) and an attached bathroom with a Western style crapper. Unadulterated luxury if ever I saw it.


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Two rather unenthusiastic guys were running the show.  It was apparent that sparkling wit and insightful anecdotes about Pangong were not on the menu but the indifferent duo could make a glorious cup of chai when persuaded.

The generator was cranked up at 7pm and a rather uninspiring dinner of sloppy bland dal was served at half past.





Like a Brownie pack holiday, it was lights out at 9:30pm (or at least that’s when the generator shut down). Everything plunged into darkness, the silence was deafening but once over the initial disorientation, I realised how fantastic it was to be in one of the remotest places on Earth.


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